African Grey parrots are some of the most intelligent parrots in the world. Both the Congo African Grey and Timneh African Grey species are very bright, inquisitive birds that can solve problems quite well, making them amusing to watch and somewhat challenging to own. African Grey parrots are well known as the best talking parrots. They are much more likely to learn to speak than any other species.

However, do not purchase an African Grey simply because you want a talking parrot. The only way to ensure you get a talking parrot is to buy one that already knows how to talk. There are many African Greys that never say a word. In fact, having a talking parrot is a poor reason to purchase any parrot. Parrots, especially those as intelligent and emotional as these, need loving homes that respect them for what they are rather than homes that want to show off a talking bird.

You may have heard about Alex, the African Grey parrot owned and studied by Dr. Irene Pepperberg at the University of Arizona. This amazing parrot has been raised in a setting much like that in which a human child would be raised and using many of the same techniques and methods a parent would use in raising a healthy, happy child. Alex has learned how to use hundreds of human words in context, actually asking for specific items he desires. He can count from one to five, after which it simply becomes "many". He can identify shapes, colors, objects, and even tell what is different between objects in a set. If you want to learn about a truly talented parrot, you should visit the Alex Foundation online.

Not all African Grey parrots are this obviously talented, but then most parrots do not have someone that spends every minute of every day with them as is the case with Alex. The African Grey's abilities seem to be largely limited by the amount of interaction they have with humans. Unless you become the "flock" to your African Grey, it will have no motivation to learn how to communicate in the ways this parrot has learned to talk with his trainer. African Greys are long-lived parrots. It has been documented that one Grey that lived in Alaska was 112 years of age. With proper care, a good diet including fresh fruits and vegetables as well as seeds or pellets, a loving home, and a safe, healthy environment, these parrots can live very long lives.

If you decide an African Grey is the parrot for you, keep this in mind and determine who care will for your parrot should it outlive you. African Greys are comical and inventive in their play. In order to keep them from becoming bored, and as a result plucking or chewing their feathers, they need a spacious cage, lots of out-of-the-cage time to play and interact with people, plenty of interesting food to eat, puzzle toys to solve, wood to chew, and a regular schedule so that it knows what to expect each day. If you can give an African Grey these things, it just might be the best parrot for you.

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Amazon parrots can be quite talented at making human sounds and imitating other sounds they hear in their environment. They are considered to have the most probability of learning to create human speech after the very talkative African Grey parrots. However, there is never any guarantee that any parrot of any species will learn to talk. A great deal of whether a parrot will talk or not has to do with their owner's ability to consistently train them, as well as that specific parrot's innate ability. Males are more likely to speak then females, but there are plenty of female Amazon parrots with vocabularies of hundreds of words. Amazons are quite intelligent and may learn to use words in proper context to truly communicate with their humans.

Amazon parrots are very intelligent creatures, operating on about the level of a three- to four-year old human child. They are social creatures, very playful and energetic and desire to be the center of attention. They can be a bit moody at times, especially adult birds during the spring and summer months when hormones are raging during the breeding season. This is true even for single parrots that have no mates and only a human flock to interact with them. They can also be quite stubborn, jealous, and sometimes irritable. These birds can also become so bonded to a single person that they will attack all others unless care is taken in their training and family interaction. They have a strong bite, making them less than perfect parrots for homes with young children.

The best Amazon parrots for pets are those that bond with humans early in life. If an Amazon parrot is handled by humans before it is weaned it doesn't have to be hand-fed to make a great companion. In fact, often hand-fed babies develop personality problems unless they were carefully socialized. Too often, parrots that are hand-fed and placed back into their incubators, such as parrots that are raised in commercial breeding facilities, will become feather pluckers or very emotionally needy as they grow up.

It is also true that Amazon parrots can be quite loud at times. There is no parrot that can ever be expected to be totally silent; parrots make noise. But Amazons have a loud voice and they will tend to use it when they do not get their way or when they hear their favorite person but can not see them. It is not uncommon for an Amazon owner to hear their parrot a block away! If you live in a tiny apartment with thin walls, this might not be the parrot for you.

The Amazon parrots can also be some of the most loving parrot around. If they are raised in a gentle home with lots of love and trained to understand the basic manners commands, they can make great companions. They are not for everyone, however. Before you decide you want to own an Amazon parrot, study the species carefully and visit several different parrots in various settings. Do not purchase an Amazon parrot as an impulse purchase. Too many parrots are already in shelters because someone purchased them without knowing what to expect and learned they couldn't live with the bird happily. Don't let this happen to you and an Amazon parrot.

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Bird feeders for parrots usually come as part of the cage your purchase for your parrot, but if you buy a cage that doesn't have feeder accessories, you'll have to purchase those separately. It is wise to select a cage for your parrot that has doors to access the bird feeders through, making removing and replacing food an easy, simple task. Some parrot cages have two openings for this purpose, one for food and one for water. Some cages have four openings, which is the better choice if available. However, you can always add another bird feeder for parrots into the cage so that you have a seed or pellet dish, a water container, and a fresh food container.

Every day you must remove any left-over food, clean the bird feeder for your parrot, replenish and replace the food containers. You must also remove and clean the water container daily. Do not skip this important task because bacteria can quickly grow in bird feeders, making your feathered friend sick. In hot weather, you will want to remove fresh foods within a few hours of serving them, especially any food that can spoil quickly such as meat, any food made with eggs, and even cooked vegetables.

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A handy bird feeder for parrot that you may want to add to your accessories is a device that allows you to thread fresh fruits and vegetables onto a metal stick, screwing a wooden or plastic bead onto the end. These "kabob" devices can easily be purchased and hang from the interior of the cage to make fresh foods fun for your parrot to eat and convenient to serve. These kabobs are especially good for serving corn on the cob, slices of apple or other fruit, broccoli flowerets, and other vegetables and fruits that are large enough and sturdy enough to have a rod inserted into them without falling apart. This can save on clean-up time because the parrot can not toss the foods out of a food dish and into the bottom of the cage or onto your floor.

Some parrots, especially large ones, love to remove their bird feeders and water dishes. They then throw these out of the cage or dump them into the cage bottom. This not only wastes food, but it leaves a big mess for you to clean up. The solution is to purchase a locking bird feeder for parrots that can not be removed by your parrot. There are many different models on the market, even one that is for the bird that "nothing will stop". These may not be quite as easy for you to remove and clean, but it is worth the extra effort if your feathered friend is one that loves to toss the bird feeders for parrots around.

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Macaw cages are study parrot cages with large diameter bars that are widely spaced compared to cages for smaller species. Even the small Hahn's Macaw has a beak and head large enough to easily be safe with bars spaced 1 inch apart. Your goal is to select a cage that does not permit the parrot to stick its head through the bars and become trapped or to trap its wings in the bars. The bar diameter must be large enough that the parrot can not break the bars loose at the weld point, ruining the cage's structure.

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Often, you'll see macaw cages that are round in shape. While some people like this shape cage, others find it particularly difficult to properly secure perches, dishes, and bottom tray coverings and you might want to consider a rectangular or square shape instead. Make certain the macaw cage is tall enough for the long tail feathers to have plenty of room so they will not become ragged as the parrot climbs up and down inside the cage. It should be sufficiently wide that the wings of the bird can be fully extended without touching either side of the cage, as a bare minimum. When purchasing cages, for macaws or any species, buy the largest quality cage you can afford. Bigger really is better when it comes to cages for macaws and other parrots.

There should be a large opening in the cage for the macaw to enter and exit the cage. Macaws, even the smaller species, are big parrots and they will not be happy coming and going through a cramped opening. Many macaw cages have a large door to allow access and a smaller door inside this door for access to food and water containers. A good cage choice is one that has food and water door openings, and the more access doors, the better, because you'll want a place to serve fresh fruits and vegetables, treats and other human foods.

Powder coated macaw cages provide long years of wear. Stainless steel cages are another good choice. Most painted cages can be damaged by the strong macaw beak over time. Because macaw cages are a hefty investment, you want to spend your dollars wisely so you will not need to replace the cage soon.

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If you are considering adding a macaw to your live, keep in mind this is a really big decision. These parrots are highly intelligent and require a lot of time and care from their human flock. They also require study, safe cages for the time that you can't be there to supervise them outside the cage. They can be noisy and therefore may not be the best choice for apartment dwellers who want to add a parrot to their lives.

For those that can provide the right home for a macaw, the hardest part of the decision is choosing which macaw species to own. Macaws are not inexpensive; even the small species cost several hundred dollars and the large Hyacinth Macaw, an absolutely gorgeous parrot, can cost as much as $25,000! You also have to provide a large, sturdy cage for your macaw, and this is another large expense. You'll need to provide veterinary care as needed with at least one check-up per year, as well as food and lots of toys which will almost immediately be destroyed by the large, strong beak. But any happy macaw owner will tell you it is well worth every cent of the cost to be loved by one of these magnificent, elegant feathered creatures.

Just about everyone loves the beautiful blue and gold macaws. These birds are commonly seen the companion parrot market and they adapt to live with humans quite easily. These big birds have three color variations, all of which are mainly blue and gold but with slightly different patterns.

The greenwing macaw is the macaw whose name and color just do not match! These birds are mainly red with a band of green on the wings. These are not seen in the pet market as commonly as the blue and gold, but more are being seen recently. They are very smart and extremely mischievous. There are two subspecies of greenwing macaws, both are among the largest macaw species.

The Hyacinth macaw is a rare and gorgeous parrot. The blue-violet plumage combined with the bright yellow skin and loving, gentle nature makes this one of the most sought-after macaws, but also the most expensive. Because the numbers in the wild are on the decline, any responsible Hyacinth macaw owner should breed the parrot once it reaches adulthood.

The military macaw is red and green, but a bit more muted tones than some of the other macaws. They are still beautiful birds and have tons of personality and are frequently very talented talkers. They are slightly smaller than the blue and gold and other large macaws listed above.

The Hahn's macaw is the smallest macaw commonly seen on the pet market. This little guy is full of personality but in a smaller package. Sometimes called the "mini macaw" because of its size, it is the least expensive of the macaws and can easily fit into a home that isn't well suited for the bigger macaws.

These are only a few of the many species of macaws. Before you consider purchasing a macaw, do your homework about the species you are considering. Take into account the needs of the parrot as well as your needs before making your decision about whether you can fit a macaw into your life successfully. There are too many macaws in parrot rescue centers waiting to be placed in loving homes because people purchase these beauties without thinking through the commitment of taking home a parrot that can live for many decades.

If you can give a macaw a loving, caring, safe, and healthy home, you'll have a cuddly friend for live. You might even consider looking into adopting a macaw that needs to be re-homed as an option. This can save you a great deal of the cost of purchase but does require that you invest some time working with parrots and submit to a screening process. It is well worthwhile to have the satisfaction of having a macaw that needs a loving home come to love you and your family.

Red Fronted Macaw (Ara rubrogenys)

Comical and attentive these macaws are much smaller than those more commonly seen. They have pleasant voices and a mischievous nature. They enjoy peanuts and corn, both of which are eaten in their native country, Bolivia. One of the mid-range macaws, these two foot long birds are about a foot shorter than their larger family members. What they lose in size, they make up for in personality. Though certainly not as common as Blue and Golds and Scarlets, captive bred birds are usually available.

Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao)

Nature created a spectacular combination of color in this macaw. They are in the top ten of the worlds most beautiful parrots. Preferring the love of the immediate family over large crowds. They can become real show-offs if introduced to the public life at a young age. The most impressionable of the large macaws, Scarlets are particularly sensitive to mistreatment of any type. They have sometimes been called "nippy," but if raised in a loving environment, allowed daily freedom from their cages and played with, they will match any Blue and Gold. They are highly sensitive to their environment and do poorly if raised in isolation. They can be the most loving and adoring member of the family, but if mistreated when they are raised or teased they can become headstrong and unhappy. There are several variations of the Scarlet; most notably an uncommon variety with emerald green on the wing along with the yellow; and the more common wide patch of yellow. Their declining populations in the wild continues to cause great concern for tropical environmentalists

Macaws as Pets

Provided they are given a healthy diet, allowed freedom from their cage and given lots of attention macaws will be life long companions. These birds are so long lived that several dogs and cats will have been born and died in one macaw's lifetime in your home. It is because of this longevity that deciding on a pet macaw should not be taken lightly. This is not the time for impulse buying that you might regret later. Several of our clients commute to work with their birds, where they spend the day with their owners at their second home. This arrangement has bonded the client and the bird strongly together. Others have built large environments where their birds live happily.

While a number of macaw species are now commonly bred in the U.S. and elsewhere in the world, certain species remain difficult to breed and their populations remain low in the wild. The wild populations of Buffon's, Hyacinth and Blue-throated Macaws have severely declined in recent years. In my opinion they are still too rare to be used as pets. I would, however, encourage serious breeders to work with these species.

Closed Banded, Captive Bred Birds

Most captive bred birds are closed banded. Closed banding means the bird has had a bracelet-like steel or aluminum band (with a letter and number code stamped on it) put on its leg. This band's code tells where the bird was bred and has a unique number for that bird. The band is welded shut and can not be put on the bird after it is about two weeks old, depending on the macaw species.

Health

This is the single most important consideration when purchasing your macaw. Anyone selling a macaw should be willing to have their bird checked by an avian veterinarian before you take it home. Included in that exam should be a Complete Blood Count (known as a CBC), cultures of the throat and vent, and a Chlamydia (psittacosis) screen. It takes about two days for the results of these tests to be determined. A signed vet certificate should accompany the bird. If all the tests and the exam reveal no apparent disease you can feel fairly confident about your purchase. As a precaution all new birds should still be quarantined from the rest of your birds for a minimum of 45 days.

Age

The age is less important than the health and temperament of the bird. Buying a young bird does not guarantee tameness and buying an older macaw does not mean the bird will not make a good pet. Macaws are individuals. Macaws will continue to grow until they are about a year and a half old. Baby macaws have dark eyes which lighten as they age, except for Buffon's and Hyacinths which remain dark when they are mature.

Male or Female

The gender is not important for pet purposes. The only reason to desire a certain sex would be to breed or prevent breeding. Some pet owners may desire to get birds that are the same sex as the birds they already have to avoid breeding. With some species them appears to be fewer of one or the other sex. Because of this there is a greater demand from breeders for these rarer birds. From a temperament standpoint I see few differences. There are introverts and extroverts in both sexes. The males are not always larger than the females. This varies more due to their genetic background and the species. Talking ability does not seem to be sex related.

Availability

Birds do not breed like dogs and cats. The clutch size of a macaw varies from two to four eggs with one to three fertile on an average. A particular pair might raise a second clutch one year or skip a year entirely. Having bred macaws for 21 years, we can guess when the birds will go to nest and therefore when we might have babies in the nursery. But this is only a guess. Once you decide what species you want it is best to get on a waiting list to insure you will get the species you want.

Unweaned Birds

There is a common practice of selling unweaned birds. The rational for this is the breeder will sell the bird for less as they do not have to complete the weaning process. Weaning is a very stressful event, for both the macaw and its' new owner. However, in an accomplished breeders hands this is achieved with minimal stress. The birds are not ready for a change in environments when they are being hand fed. They are used to their hand feeders technique and it is impossible for any two people to hand feed the same. The extra cost in buying a weaned bird is worth it. If birds have been properly socialized by raising them in a nurturing environment with other birds and people, they will be well adjusted to their surroundings. Many unweaned birds die horrible deaths with well meaning new owners. As a result, burned crops, infections and stunted birds are commonly seen by avian veterinarians.

Locating a Macaw

There are primarily three ways to acquire a bird; a pet shop, pet owner or directly from the breeder. In addition, your veterinarian might be helpful in providing information on available birds.

Buying from a breeder

For most of us the first step towards acquiring a new bird will be in a phone conversation with its present owner. The oft quipped remark in aviculture is "buy only from reputable breeders." It is usually safer to get your new acquisition directly from the breeder. They will know the history of the bird, the genetic background, temperament, diet, and can frequently offer a selection of birds. Some breeders might even include sexing the birds and health checks as part of the purchase price. Though there are certainly unscrupulous breeders, most honestly want their birds in a good home.

Buying from a pet owner

Single birds in family homes my become available that might be the perfect bird by posing little or no biosecurity risk to your facility, though sometimes these single birds have become too bonded to humans to be breeders and in a few cases psychotic. Signs to watch for are that the bird walks in place (from being kept in too small a cage) or screams excessively. Some of those birds might adjust to a breeding environment if given a new mate and ample time to adjust. Most pet birds will do fine in their new home with knowledgeable owners once they have time to adjust.

Buying from a pet shop

Recently more pet shops have specialized in birds. They might offer several advantages to the interested buyer. For instance, the bird, cages and feed would be available in a one-stop location requiring a minimum of driving around. Pet stores potentially can offer a variety of species for you to choose from. The disadvantage is that they might not have several birds of the same species for you to see, might not be able to provide information on the former owner, or might not have knowledgeable personnel to answer your questions.

Veterinarian referrals

We have found some of our birds through our veterinarian. Long term pets can become available that your veterinarian may have been seeing for several years and your veterinarian might have several years of medical information on this bird from annual exams.

The birds history

The more information you can find out about the bird's lifestyle before you get them the better. How are they housed, inside or outside? What temperature range are they used to? What is their diet? Knowing their favorite foods might make their adjustment to your home less stressful. Are they able to fly? This will have an affect on how you position the perches. Learn as much about their feather condition, personality and previous medical history as possible.

Find out what other types of birds are on the premises. This will help you assess the risk factor of bringing in this new bird. When did the seller last get a new bird? This is also important. If they are not following a strict quarantine of new arrivals, the bird you wish to purchase might have been exposed to this new bird.

What does the purchase price include? Will the owner have an avian veterinarian check the bird? What will that include? Suggested protocol would be a complete physical exam, blood work, cultures of the vent and throat, and chlamydia screen. Different species might require different tests be done. Who will pay for that exam? Will the owner include written information about the bird? What is the return policy? These things all need to be discussed prior to your purchase.

Cost of the bird

Just like with other commodities the cost is based on rarity. If the bird is uncommon in captivity or in the wild, you can expect to pay a higher price. If the bird is bred frequently in captivity, the cost will normally reflect this. If the seller has done all the veterinarian checks, sex determination and weaning you can expect to pay more. This is beneficial to the buyer who otherwise would have to do it himself As many people have found out a higher cost does not guarantee a healthy bird.

A large part of a parrot's behavior has to do with taking care of its physical needs each day. The parrot will wake up about the time daylight begins and, with short naps along the way, continue its day until darkness. Many parrots adjust this pattern because of artificial lighting, but parrots need quite a bit of sleep time to be healthy. During waking hours that are not spent interacting with the human flock, a parrot will spend time eating and grooming. A great deal of time is spent each day preening feathers so that every feather is in perfect condition. Play is another parrot behavior you'll see daily.

If you have a companion parrot in your home, you may notice that your parrot eats when it sees humans eating. This parrot behavior is because in the wild parrots eat as a flock frequently. Your parrot will probably love it if you include it in mealtimes, serving some healthy human foods to the bird and introducing new foods at this time. It is much more likely to try new foods when it sees its favorite humans eating them.

Generally, a parrot makes noise in the mornings shortly after waking and during the late afternoon. This is the parrot's way of saying it is glad to be alive. It can also be a means of attempting to attract a mate and you may hear special sounds that are indicative of sexual calls.

A parrot behavior that simply can't be changed is the fact that every parrot that is a companion parrot will make contact calls with its humans from time to time. Your parrot can be expected to call to you when you return home after being away for any length of time, from a few minutes to a few hours. It is telling you how happy it is to see you return. Some parrots also call when their humans leave them. It is not normal for a happy, healthy parrot to scream all the time, however. This can result from boredom, lack of attention, improper training or socialization, behavioral problems due to improper hand feeding or weaning, or illness.

Another parrot behavior that can't and shouldn't be changed is the desire to chew on wood and engage in other forms of play with its beak. Parrots in the wild chew wood to wear down their beaks, to create nesting cavities in trees, and as a form of play. Do not expect to teach a parrot not to chew on its toy. In fact, this parrot behavior should be encouraged because busy beaks are happy beaks.

If you notice your parrot's behavior changes significantly suddenly, you should watch closely to be sure your parrot is not ill. A parrot that stops playing, grooming, interacting with humans, eating, or begins to sleep an abnormal amount is probably ill and medical attention must be sought quickly to ensure the illness is treated before the parrot becomes so ill it can not be saved.

Parrot behavior is a complex issue and many books have been written on this subject. If you watch your parrot closely, you'll begin to understand the meaning of the parrot behaviors it exhibits. You'll understand your parrot much more if you watch behaviors, keeping in mind what has just occurred that elicited the action on the parrot's part.

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It is important that anyone thinking of going into parrot breeding must realize that a parrot can be a companion parrot or a breeder parrot, but seldom can a parrot be both. There are those rare cases where two pet parrots breed and then return to being pets the rest of the year, but that is simply to rare to consider. Once two parrots bond as mates, they are is just as married as a human man and wife. They want to be together and not have humans interfering with their lives, acting like a "third wheel". If you want a tame, loving parrot, then don't try breeding that parrot. Instead, get a pair for breeding purposes.

For parrots to want to breed there must be certain conditions met. In the wild parrots breed in the spring time when fresh foods are plentiful so that they will be able to provide sufficiently to raise a healthy clutch of young bird. They breed when the days are longer, providing extra daylight hours for foraging for the food. In the wild chew a hole into a tree (there are a few exceptions) to create a nesting cavity for laying eggs and nurturing the young.

Breeding parrots in captivity requires that these conditions be mimicked. You must know that you have a true pair of male and female parrots that get along well and have had some time to bond with each other. Then, the daylight hours must increase slowly; the springtime allows this to happen naturally but it can be accomplished indoors breeding facilities. The amount of fresh, green foods must increase, indicating food will be available for the young. Then a nest box must be placed into the breeding enclosure so that the birds will have a place for their babies. The nest box also stimulates the hen's ovaries to produce eggs.

Once the nest box has been placed, the male parrot will investigate it thoroughly. Once he finally enters the nest, he will check out the interior and, if he approve, he will come out of the nest and usually chew on the opening. This lets the hen know that the cock thinks this is a fine place to raise a family. Soon after, mating will occur, perhaps within minutes or within days.

After the eggs are laid, usually two days apart, the hen and cock share the sitting duties. They turn the eggs so the fetus does not stick to the shell. The babies will hatch, depending on species, after 19 or more day and will hatch in the order the eggs were laid. The mother will feed the babies food she regurgitates from her crop and the male will feed the hen the same way. He may also take a turn at feeding the babies, but in the early days, the hen takes most of the feeding chores.

The babies are naked and bare with eyes closed. In a week or so, their eyes begin to open and tiny feathers begin to appear. Once the parrot babies have become covered with feathers, they will start to look less like ET and more like the beautiful parrots you love.

Never start parrot breeding unless you know you have a good way to locate homes for the babies. There are too many parrots that are unwanted, mistreated, and abandoned in shelters every day to breed parrots unless you have a good reason to do so. You will never get rich breeding parrots and it is a lot of work, but it can be very satisfying too.

Technorati Tags: Breeding, Parrots

There is a general rule of thumb that must be used in choosing parrot cages. The minimum size cage to be considered must be large enough so that the parrot can fully extend both wings without touching either side of the cage. It must be large enough that the parrot has room to climb up and down and jump from perch to perch. Keep in mind that, when thinking of parrot cages, bigger is always better. Purchase the largest cage you can afford with bar size and spacing suitable for the specific species of parrot you own. You can apply this rule to parrots from the small budgie to the huge macaws and cockatoos.

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Bar spacing is important. The bars must be spaced closely enough together so that the parrot can not stick its head between the bars and become trapped. Because of the shape of a parrot's head and mandibles (jaws), it is quite easy for a parrot to get its head outside the bars and then be unable to pull its head back into the cage. It can quite easily hurt itself or even break its neck in panic once it realizes it has become trapped.

Bar diameter is another important point to consider. Large parrots need large diameter bars for their cages. Smaller parrots can live safely in cages with smaller bars. Parrots have beaks that are amazingly strong. A big bird can easily break the bars of a parrot cage that does not have large enough diameter bars quickly and create a safety hazard or escape. A cockatiel cage, if used for a stronger conure, can quickly lose bars because the bird will work and work to break them loose at the weld points.

You want to choose a parrot cage that feels safe and cozy to your parrot. Generally speaking, parrots do not like round cages. Round cages are also more difficult to find perches that fit well, harder to clean. It is difficult to cover the debris tray in the bottom unless you custom cut paper for it. It is better to select a square or rectangular cage for your bird.

Do not select a cage that does not have at least two openings for food and water dishes. If you can locate on with four doors for food, that is even better. If you have a bird that remove its food and water dishes, slinging them around and making a mess, you can purchase clips or special dishes that prevent this activity.

Choose a parrot cage that has a large entry/exit door. Some cages have small doors inside larger doors. These are great choices for medium sized parrots. Be sure the entry door is large enough for your bird to enter and exit easily.

A bottom grate in the parrot cage that prevents the parrot from getting into dropped food that may have become contaminated is important. A slide-out debris tray is crucial so you can easily keep the parrot cage sanitary and neat.

Choose your parrot cage carefully. Then place lots of parrot toys and perches in the right size for your bird and your feathered friend will have a happy home all its own.

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Of great concern to everyone these days is Avian Influenza. However, this is not something you should worry about a great deal unless you work in the poultry industry, have outdoor aviaries where migratory avians could drop feces into the aviary, or you live in an area directly impacted by the virus.

In the wild, parrots live in flocks. Any sick parrot is a liability to the survival of the flock and will be outcast. Therefore, the sick parrot will do everything in its power to hide signs of illness. Only when the parrot disease has progressed to a point that the parrot is too weakened to hide the symptoms any longer will the bird allow flock members to learn of its distress. This means we have to keep a close eye on our feathered friends to catch any signs of illness early on while treatments can be effective.

A bird that is healthy sleeps on one foot. This is true of a small budgie, a medium sized conure, or a large cockatoo or macaw. In fact, even flamingos sleep on one foot – a rather funny sight to say the least! This does not mean that you parrot may not take a short nap dozing on both feet, but once it goes into sound sleep for the night, it will sleep on only one foot, hiding the other foot in its feathers. Any parrot that sleeps soundly with both feet on the perch, usually crouched low to the perch is not well.

In order to identify potential parrot disease in your bird, learn what your parrots dropping look like when it is healthy. Consistently runny droppings are a sure sign of disease. Any parrot may eat something that is watery and have droppings that are runny for a short time after eating this food, such as a juicy fruit, but the runny droppings will not continue even throughout an entire day.

A healthy parrot is a well-groomed parrot. Every day a parrot spends a great deal of time preening its feathers, distributing oil from the gland at the base of the tail onto the feathers, and keeping each feather in its proper place. Any parrot that allows its feathers to become disarrayed and seems as if it doesn't care to groom is a sick parrot.

A runny nose, prolonged sneezing, coughing, watery eyes or discharge from the beak are certain signs of parrot disease. If these symptoms appear, seek medical help immediately to save your parrot! Any parrot will sneeze occasionally, just as people do, but if your parrot sneezes frequently, especially if you see nasal discharge, the bird is ill.

A parrot that is healthy plays and relishes its food. Eating and playing are big parts of a parrot's day. If your parrot suddenly refuses to eat foods that it has eaten in the past, offer it some of its favorite foods. If it will not eat even its favorite treats, you have a sick parrot and need to get to a veterinarian quickly. If you parrot becomes inactive, sitting on the perch with feathers ruffled, you need to have it checked by a vet right away.

If you parrot shows any sign of parrot diseases, take it to an avian veterinarian quickly. Parrots have high metabolisms and if they are not eating well, drinking water, and acting normally, you can lose your beloved feathered pal quickly if you do not act. Don't delay; most parrot diseases can be treated if caught early enough.

Little was known about parrot food when parrots first become pets. People thought parrots lived only a few years, perhaps 20 or 30, but no one thought that large species of parrots could live to be over 100 years of age. Today, we know that with healthy, well-selected parrot food, even a small parakeet can live 15 years or more, cockatiels have been recorded reaching 29 years of age, and one African Grey in Alaska was documented as being 112 years old when it died.

Parrot food, for the basic, staple diet, comes in either pellets or seed mix. Many people prefer the pellets but if the parrot won't accept pellets, a good seed mix will work just fine. However, purchased parrot food in seeds or pellets is simply not enough to maintain a parrot's health and vitality.

Your parrot's food should be only about 50% seeds or pellets. The rest of the diet should be comprised of fruits, vegetables, and other "people foods". There are, however, a few people foods that simply can't be parrot food. These are known as the "seven deadly foods".

Never allow a parrot to eat any chocolate, avocado, fruit pits, raw meat or poultry, raw eggs, alcohol, or caffeine. These seven deadly foods can kill your precious parrot. You must also limit the parrot's consumption of any food that is high in salt, fat, or sugar. Parrots love food that is sweet or high in fat, so sometimes this can be difficult, but limit these foods to prevent obesity. Also, never feed your parrot food that might be spoiled or rancid and always remove fresh foods from the cage or play area before they can possibly spoil.

Many parrots love sharing meals with their human flocks. This is because in the wild, most parrots eat as a social activity. When your parrot sees food you are eating, if it is a tame, loving bird, it wants to taste your food. This is a great way to introduce new foods into your parrot's diet.

From personal experience, it is clear that parrots love milk and breakfast cereal. If the cereal happens to be a sugary type, let your bird have some milk and only one or two bites of the actual cereal. If the cereal is a healthy type, you can let the parrot have more bites. Many parrots simply love cheese and eggs. Many of the medium to large parrots love bits of well-cooked meat, poultry, and fish. They also love to crack a chicken bone and get the marrow out of the bone, which is quite good for them. All vegetables and fruits are good for parrots (except avocado!), as are rice, pasta, potatoes, and just about anything you can imagine that you eat. Just remember, if it is sweet, salty, or high in fat, limit the amount offered.

Purchase parrot food that is fresh and buy only small quantities so it will remain fresh. If your parrot suddenly stops eating a type of parrot food that it has loved in the past, especially if it is eating a seed-based diet, examine the parrot food for insects or bugs. You can test the freshness of the food by planting seeds and checking how many sprout. If few sprout, the food is old and therefore not very nutritious.